Makeup with a Mannequin Effect? The Whole Truth Behind the Viral Makeup of Margiela's Fashion Show
Many makeup artists, influencers and beauty fans tried to recreate the iconic porcelain face makeup seen in Paris. These were the products used and the step-by-step to achieve it according to the creator herself. The last Haute Couture Fashion Week in Paris gave a lot to talk about. In addition to the creative proposals of the fashion houses, the beauty category was the one that practically stole the show. For the Parisian label Maison Margiela, the porcelain effect makeup that went viral in a matter of hours, was the icing on the cake of a proposal that combined art, skill and theatricality on the catwalk. After days of theories and attempts to recreate the iconic makeup, Pat McGrath, its creator, finally revealed the step-by-step to achieve the coveted porcelain doll look.
"Paris under the moonlight over the Seine" was the scene that inspired John Galliano, creative director of Maison Margiela, to create an exquisite collection that combined fashion and art. The ambitious collection had as its muses the women who inhabited the dark Parisian nights of the 1920s and 1930s under the Alexander III Bridge that crosses the Seine River. A series of portraits that Pat McGrath, the fashion show's make-up artist, managed to immortalize on the models' faces thanks to her particular make-up.
The magic of the beauty looks that looked like something out of a sci-fi movie became an immersive experience that surpassed the models on the runway and won over makeup artists, beauty influencers and fans who tried to replicate the formula on social media and discover the secret ingredient with which Pat McGrath and her team created this iconic look.
The layer of glass effect that sealed the dramatic makeup was the highlight of Pat McGrath's famous 'beauty look' for the Margiela fashion show. A technique that many wanted to decipher and imitate in any way possible, thus generating a series of theories around its formulation. The first pointed to the use of Kryolan's Liquid Glass, a viscous vinyl polymer preparation that when applied and dried in layers gives an extremely shiny effect on the skin. The second, a cucumber-based mask from Freeman that, according to makeup artists on networks, is diluted with water and applied with a sprayer, allowing it to dry between coats. The third one, the Diamond Luminous Glowing Mask by Natura Bissé, the bet of Katie Jane Hugues, makeup artist of celebrities like Hailey Bieber, who assures that it also leaves that glowing effect on the skin.
While these were the most popular theories thanks to the similar effect that makeup artists managed to recreate, the truth is that not a single product was used to create the famous glass effect. After the makeup went viral, its original creator encouraged her followers to try to guess, recreate it and share their results on networks. A dynamic that was taken as an interesting challenge by famous beauty influencers and makeup artists such as James Charles, Danielle Marcan, Pamela Segura, Sacheu, Jack Hughes, Luis Torres, Mei Pang and more.
Through a live webcast, McGrath finally revealed the recipe that took her three years to develop and finally debuted in a big way at the Margiela show. First, she explained that the crystal finish on the skin started from the application of the foundations and products of her line, characterized by their moisturizing finish that enhances the glow on the skin. After applying the aforementioned makeup, McGrath used SFX (special effects makeup) glue on the corners of the lips, nostrils and inner parts of the eyes to ensure the makeup lasts.
After this first part, she created the famous glass-effect glossy film based on four masks that peel off (as we saw in the viral videos of models peeling off their makeup behind the scenes): Freeman's Peel Off Gel Mask 'cucumber', Que Bella Hydrating Pineapple Peel Off Face Mask, Proot Calendula Peel Off Face Mask and Daggett & Ramsdell Australian Tea Tree Oil & Vitamin E Peel Off Facial Mask. She diluted the masks with Skin Illustrator Clear Gloss, a product designed to create a glass-finish mannequin effect on the skin, and water. She sprayed the mixture over the face with an airbrush for a fluid effect and better coverage. She applied seven to eight layers over the applied makeup, always allowing each one to dry with a hair dryer before applying the next.
To protect the eyes, cheeks and lips from airbrushing, McGrath used a plastic spoon and applied her signature lip gloss over the lips and eyelids to give the ultimate porcelain finish. She finished the makeup with a coat of mascara over the lashes. Want to try it yourself? Well, the legendary makeup artist will soon release the full video of the virtual masterclass on how to create the viral makeup for the Margiela runway show. She will also be releasing a new product from her makeup line for you to emulate the crystal finish on your skin. It is not ready yet, but it is expected to hit the stores in the near future. We can't wait to get it!